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If you’ve ever watched a golf tournament and felt a pang of jealousy over those perfectly flat fairways, you aren’t alone. Most residential yards aren’t “level”—they’re full of divots, bumps, and “ankle-twisters” that make mowing a chore and drainage a disaster.
But here is the pro secret: you don’t need a bulldozer to fix it. Lawn leveling is the art of using a thin, controlled layer of sand or soil mix to fill in those low spots without killing your grass. Whether you are a first-time DIYer or a certified “lawn nut,” this guide will show you how to turn your bumpy turf into a masterpiece.
Before we grab a shovel, let’s get one thing clear: Leveling isn’t about re-grading your entire property or moving hillsides. It’s a precision process designed to work out the small imperfections in your turf. Think of it as “spackling” your lawn to create a smooth, consistent surface.
The “what” matters just as much as the “how.” Not all sand is created equal.
Buying Tip: For small touch-ups, bags from the hardware store are fine. For a whole yard, order in bulk! Just be sure to use our Material Calculator so you don’t end up with a mountain of sand in your driveway that you don’t need.
Before you bury your grass in sand, you need to know what kind of “patient” you are working on.
| Grass Type | Can It Handle Heavy Leveling? | Max Depth per Application |
| Bermuda | Yes! It loves it. | 0.5 – 1.0 inch |
| Zoysia | Moderately. | 0.25 – 0.5 inch |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | Lightly only. | 0.25 inch |
| Tall Fescue | Very Light. | ≤ 0.25 inch |
Timing is Everything: * Warm-Season (Bermuda/Zoysia): Level in late spring to mid-summer when growth is explosive.
You can’t level what you can’t see. Start by scalping your lawn (mowing it much lower than usual) and bagging the clippings. This allows the sand to fall directly onto the soil rather than getting hung up on the grass blades. If you have thick thatch, now is the perfect time to dethatch or aerate.
Walk your yard and mark the deepest “potholes” with a bit of marking paint or a stake. These spots will need a little extra attention.
This is where the manual labor kicks in—unless you’re smart about it. You could use a wheelbarrow and a shovel, but for a consistent, professional finish, a topdressing machine is your best friend.
The goal is an even “dusting.” Pro Tip: Never completely bury your grass. The tips of the blades should always be visible so they can photosynthesize and grow through the new layer.
Once the sand is down, you need to work it in. Use a leveling rake, a drag mat, or even a push broom. The goal is to move the sand off the high spots and into the low spots. If you’re doing a large area, our tow-behind units make this process incredibly efficient.
Give your yard a light, frequent watering for the next 7–14 days. This helps the sand settle and encourages the grass to “punch through” the new layer. Avoid heavy rainstorms if possible, as a flash flood can wash your hard work right into the street!
For the serious lawn enthusiast, the Earth & Turf 415-SP is a game-changer. It is the only unit on the market that combines aeration, seeding, and topdressing into one single pass. It turns a three-day weekend project into a three-hour job.
Stop tripping over your yard and start enjoying it. Whether you need to rent a machine or you’re ready to invest in your own Commercial Topdresser, Earth & Turf has the tools to help you get the job done right.
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Not if you do it right! As long as you don’t bury the blades completely and use the right timing for your grass type, your lawn will actually come back stronger.
We don’t recommend it. Play sand is often too fine and contains silt or clay that can actually “seal” your soil, making drainage worse. Stick with Masonry or Concrete sand.
Think of leveling as a journey, not a destination. Most “golf course” lawns take 2–3 light applications over a few years to reach perfection.
For cool-season lawns, it’s best to seed at the same time or just before applying your sand-soil mix. This ensures great seed-to-soil contact.